BEATING THE HEAT

As most of you probably know, Paris is experiencing (again) some pretty extreme heat.  It's bad enough in Texas, but when you live in a city where a-c is minimal and seldom in housing it can be really oppressing.

A screen shot of my phone yesterday

This was the temperature yesterday at 4:15 p.m.  Today (Wednesday) they're saying 102 and 108 tomorrow.  But, it is what it is so we try to make the best of it.  Yesterday we decided to go out late morning to a couple of exhibits, one on Jackie Kennedy and one on Marilyn Monroe (separate exhibits but same ticket).

As usual, we hopped on a bus then walked to the the Jackie exhibit first (Marilyn was a little walk from Jackie).  The exhibit consisted of photos of Jackie's life with all the signage in French and English (I love when they do that..not all places do, which, of course, I understand since we are, after all,  in France).  I recently read a book,  "The Fabulous Bouvier Sisters" by Sam Kashner and Nancy Schoenberger,  so much of what the exhibit shared I had read in the book.  And, of course, some things in the book were not addressed in the exhibit.  She was a fascinating woman,  and I am intrigued by her.  In addition to the photos, there was a case of a look-alike doll and clothes (like a Barbie) and a stick-on paper doll set.

I liked this photo-there were so many great pics of her

Wedding Jackie doll with a string of Jackie's traditional three-strand pearls (replica I'm sure) and a tiny framed wedding pic

I had something like this growing up - not Jackie- and you can still buy this type of "doll"

The exhibit was spread over three floors,  and the top floor had a video that ran continuously.  The young woman at reception spoke some English and told us the video was in French..."desole", but we went up anyway after viewing the pics,  and it was in English as well as French so we sat and watched the entire video.  It was very interesting but pretty lengthy so our time here took longer than we had anticipated.

Being a fan of old movies,  including Marilyn's "Seven Year Itch", "Gentlemen Prefer Blonds" and "Diamonds Are A Girl's Best Friend", seeing Marilyn's exhibit was more about entertainment than knowledge of an important piece of our history.  They had a continuous loop of segments of her movies, which we didn't watch since we've seen many of them...especially the well-known ones!  Again, it was spread over several floors with the explanations of pictures in both French and English.  This exhibit was, as we expected, quicker to go through.  But still entertaining.

One of our favorites!

Again, so many good shots of Marilyn..I liked this one

By the time we left Marilyn it was a little past lunch time and we realized by the time we got home (via bus), it would nearer to dinner time.  So we stopped at a little cafe, sat outside in the shade and ordered a little "dejeuner".

Healthy and tasty too!

This salad was delicious and perfect on a hot day!  Now...I didn't take a picture of David's vegetarian bagel sandwich (and frites, of course!) but I just want it known I would have chosen that had I not been eliminating gluten from my diet for a while!  I love a good salad, but the bagel sandwich really sounded (and looked) good!!!

We had a stop to make after lunch before heading home, so on the way to the bus stop ice cream was  necessary to cool us off!  Again, gluten-free with no cone but ice cream still tastes great!!!  However, I have to admit, a glass of cold water probably would have been a wiser choice.  But, alas, it was delicious!!!

Melting fast in the heat!

By the time we arrived home, we were exhausted and so happy to come into our little fan-cooled apartment.  I'm a little afraid being in a-c during our August US visit will be a shock to me....I think of my dad sitting on his patio outside when Mom had the a-c on.  Like father, like daughter, I think!!!

BASTILLE DAY AND BAYEUX

As most of you know, this past Sunday was French National Day, Bastille Day, in France.  This is the anniversary of the storming of the Bastille in 1789, a turning point of the French Revolution.  Today it is celebrated similar to our Fourth of July with fireworks and parties.  There is always a big celebration at the Eiffel Tower where thousands of people spend the entire day at the Champ de Mars picnicing and socializing waiting for the concert and fireworks later in the evening.  Not one to fight crowds and living soooo close to the Tower, we had dinner with friends at  20 Eiffel , a Michelin-starred restaurant across the street from our apartment.

Not a great picture but it's just a neighborhood restaurant

This was my "starter"-pretty, huh?

They always close off our street to traffic so as the evening progresses people are standing all over the street to watch the fireworks.  We had a reservation for dinner at 9:00 outside so we could see the fireworks when they began.  We did end up standing in the street after finishing dinner for a better look at the Tower.  It was a wonderful way to spend a pleasant and quiet Bastille Day.

We thought last year's fireworks were better but this was still pretty cool

That was Sunday.  Tuesday we had decided to take the train to Bayeux northwest of Paris.  The Normandy beaches are there,  and we'd been on that tour several years ago but didn't get a chance to really explore the city.  That visit it was September and cold and rainy.  Not a great day for outdoor sightseeing.  Tuesday it was mid 70's, clear and sunny.  A perfect day to stroll this cute little town, lunch outside, shop a little and visit the museum housing a 1000-year-old tapestry depicting the events leading up to the Norman conquest in 1066 of England concerning William, Duke of Normandy, and Harold, Earl of Essex, later King of England.

Our morning started early 😪, not my best time of day!!  We had breakfast (of sorts!) at the train station.

Not my first choice but it got me by!

Similar to my favorite, Egg McMuffin, but on a croissant.  Not quite as good, but it was fine to start my day.  In all, it took us about 2 1/2 hours on the train.  Though I've made no secret about missing having my car, it is a wonderful thing to have such a nice way to get to surrounding cities and sites and not fight traffic and just relax and read (I finished the book I was reading on the way back!).

Our first stop was a little antique shop where David, on a previous trip to Bayeux, had seen some copper saucepans he thought I'd be interested in.  As always happens, he didn't get hold of me early enough and the shop had closed.  So one of our main purposes this visit was to see if they still had the pans.  And, voila, they did!!

Not a big shop but it had what we wanted...

...and here's what we wanted!!!

As we sold all our cookware when we left Texas, we will need new things when we return.  This is the beginning of our purchases.

Our next step was the beautiful cathedral for a brief walk-through and a stop to light a candle and offer a prayer.  Though this is certainly not a faith tradition I grew up with, I have always loved the peace and reverence doing it gives me.  For me, it's not about the saint or apostle that may be placed there, but the quiet moment where I reach out to God..Him and me.  I just like it.

Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux

A moment to pause...

After the cathedral, we found the little cafe where David had lunched when he and his brother, Mark, were here.  It's very casual and we ate outside since the day was so beautiful.  After my so-so breakfast, I decided to get an omelette not knowing what the sides would look like!

Who eats lunches like this????  Luckily, we'd planned a very light dinner at home

In France always the "frites" (French fries) and salad.  David was more than happy to help me with the fries!!!  And for beverage (I usually just drink tap water) I ordered lemonade.  As I expected, it was in a bottle and was carbonated (not my fav but I was just in the mood for something besides water).  Then it was on to the tapestry!

David and I were both impressed how organized the tour is to see the tapestry.  Once you have your tickets, you have an audio guide (included in your ticket price) and each section of the tapestry is numbered so the story is told in number order explaining what you're seeing under each number on the tapestry.  It's such an efficient way to move people through and not get bogged down by slow walkers (of which right now I am one!!!!).  As you know, I'm not the history buff in the family but this was really very interesting, easily understood and amazing to see when you consider the workmanship that went into it.    The tapestry is 230 feet long and 20 inches tall and is composed of about 70 scenes embroidered on linen with colored woolen yarns.  It is believed to have been commissioned by Bishop Odo, Williams's half-brother and made in England in the 1070's.  It's been in France for 950 years but President Macron announced in January, 2018, it will be loaned to Britain for public display at the British Museum in London but not before 2020.

Following the tapestry, we had quite a bit of time before our train back to Paris so we strolled the streets of Bayeux and came across this little shop where I found these cute, glass bowls and a brush for cleaning vegetables.

More to add to our "take back" stash!!!  The bowls were on sale and are very heavy.  What can I say...I'm a sucker for dishes and bowls.  I admit it!!!  My mother-in-law would have been proud...she, too,  loved dishes.

By this time, I needed a snack!  As we had entered the city I had seen a little place with ice cream (of course!) and shakes.  We went back there and I got this (not to share, I might add!!!!) to hold me over for the 3-4 hours before we would have dinner at the apartment.

I had already begun drinking this when I remembered to take the picture!  It was really pretty and full then

There was a nice area with benches in front of what looked like some sort of office building.  We sat there to have our shakes and watched the comings and goings of people.  After we finished, David was walking around the "courtyard" and noticed a labyrinth.  So he started walking it while I looked on....

...and then there were three!!!

These little girls followed David through the entire walk and stayed right behind him.  He was like the Pied Piper!!!  It was really cute.  When they got to the center, they all held up their arms in success!!!!

Next to this courtyard was a stream with a water wheel and lots of blooming flowers.  On the corner was a little shop called "Boutique Coquelicot"- Poppies Shop.  Everything in it was poppies and I couldn't resist.  We had earlier purchased a "William" fabric Christmas ornament at the museum but we really prefer glass ornaments.  Here I found a white glass round ornament handpainted with red poppies!  Perfect for our next Christmas tree and a reminder of the lovely day we had in Bayeux!

This was so pretty!  To the left of this building was the Poppy Store

JULY DAYS

Though it hasn't proven to be true yet, we expected July to be a long month for us as we anticipate our trip back to the US August 1.  Looking back I think the only mistake we've made in our adventure was waiting so long to return to the States for a visit.  We were advised (and wisely so, I think) not return for 12-18 months in order to be fully settled in our new culture.  I think we could/should have made the visit after one year.  Coulda, woulda, shoulda!!!  The other issue was our visa renewal...so it is was it is and that's fine.  But we'd have done things differently if we'd known.

A long-time former work friend of ours from a long-ago job of David's was in town last week and this with her grandson followed by her son and the rest of his family the second week.  We saw Karen and Jackson that first week as they arrived and couldn't get into their hotel.  Then this week we invited the whole family one evening for aperitifs which was a nice, casual time to reacquaint with Josh (who we knew years ago) and the rest of his family (Lisa, his wife, and his other son, Riley).

Yesterday as the family did the Louvre, Karen met up with us and we strolled and shopped.  I'm afraid it didn't turn out the way she (or we) expected because after a nice cafe lunch we walked to Galeries Lafayette for her to experience.  Oh my gosh!!!!  I forgot about the summer sales going on...it was a madhouse!!!!  And I don't really like department stores...even in the US!  We did a little shopping, browsing, and then decided to hit the Chanel area for a few things Courtney wanted me to pick up for her before our visit.

NUTHOUSE!!!!!!!  We stood in line just to get in to Chanel's area of the store then faced all the other crazies (is that how you pluralize crazy?????!!!) to see and purchase the items we were looking for.  In addition to that, of course, I was on the phone texting Courtney to verify what we were spending (her $$ not ours!!!!) and her choices (not ours either!!).  Let's just say it was not the Chanel experience Courtney and I had in June when we went to the Flagship store.  But, mission accomplished, items bought and everyone's happy.  I did feel a little bad for Karen but she was okay with it.

Gotta love the presentation!!

Experience aside, I am a sucker for beautiful packaging...I don't shop enough (hardly at all!) at high-end shops to know what others do.

After fighting the crowds at GL and with our purchases on our arms, we decided we needed a snack (fancy drinks for David and Karen and ice cream for moi!!!!).  We ended up at Cafe de la Paix, a very nice restaurant not far from Opera Garnier, historically known as "Opera de Paris", completed in 1875,  is one of the most well-known opera houses in the world and is magnificent!    I ordered a banana split with three spoons but, in all honesty, I think I ate most of it.  Oh, well!!!!!

Not the best I've had, but it did the job!!!

After our little "refreshment" break, we walked Karen and the rest of her family (who'd met us at the cafe) to a French/English bookstore (Karen wanted to buy a French coffee table book for a gift) then David and I went on to WHSmith, the English bookstore so I could pick up a few magazines.  Yes, my addiction still exists though is not being fed often!!!!  On the way to the bookstore, I took a picture of this ride that is set up across the street at the Jardins des Tuileries along with other "carnival" rides.  There is no way I would ever be on this...EVER!!!!  It scares me watching.  We (and others too) stood watching and at one point each "end" is actually upside down----yuck!!!!!  To each his own my mother used to say!!!

NO WAY!!!!

After being gone for 8 hours and a long (because of traffic),  hot (because ventilation in a bus isn't great if it's warm at all) bus ride home, we scavenged for a light dinner and watched "French Kiss". Like Dorothy said "There's no place like home"---especially after a long, but nice day out!!

FUN, FELLOWSHIP AND FAHRENHEIT!!!!! 

Summer in Paris didn't really kick in til later in the month when school ended.  However, we could tell early in the month that "vacances" was drawing near... the time when Paris becomes a little less residents and a lot more tourists.

One of the things ending for us that we've enjoyed was our Inter7 French class.  Inter7 (pronounced inter-set because the number 7 in French is pronounced set) is located here in the 7th Arrondissement not far from our apartment.  It is a volunteer organization offering information, language classes and various activities.  The language class was recommended to us, and we joined a class in January.

The rest of our class had been there for the first semester, I think, so we were afraid we'd be way behind (turns out we weren't and were actually way ahead grammar-wise).   When we walked in the first day (we met Monday and Thursday mornings at 9:00 a.m.), Camilla, our teacher, spoke to us in French and I'm sure I had that "deer in the headlights" look!!!  I was certain there was no way I was going to survive in this class.  While my grammar skills are pretty good and I can put together a decent (though not always correct) sentence, I have LOTS of trouble understanding the spoken word.  Anyway, she was delightful and so nice, and we felt comfortable pretty quickly (even though much of what she said went right over me....#smileandnod!!!!).

I felt much more comfortable when I found out she was a volunteer and not a teacher by profession.    We visited one day after class, and I told her about teaching English in an ESL program at church in Texas and she said she had my job in Paris...teaching French as a second language...for no salary.  For some reason, I relaxed and could enjoy the class more knowing that.  I thought often of all the students I'd had in my ESL classes over the years-things I'd done with them in the class, subjects we'd studied, how, perhaps, they'd often had trouble understanding my spoken words (though I did always try to speak slowly which Camilla did not!!).  I hope to teach ESL again once we're back in the US and, if I'm able to, I will certainly do some things differently now that I've been on the other side of the table!

Anyway, on our last day of class,  those of us who showed up (just like ESL in Texas once the holidays are over, the numbers begin to drop til only the really committed come) had le pique-nique, a picnic.  We walked over to a little grassy park and laid out various things some of us brought.  Because we were the "regular" class members, we all knew each other really well and it was so fun.
In this small remaining group we had two from Columbia, South America, a young woman from Tibet,  Camilla who is Brazilian and the two token Americans (me and David!!).

This is our little group-I'm the one in the hat!!!!

Another ending was David's mens Bible study.  This study is really amazing to me.  These guys (frequently as many as 20 or so) meet every Thursday morning at the church at 7:30 for Bible study...real Bible study, not something topical or just sitting around visiting and having coffee.  Various men volunteer to lead so the teaching is different each week, and many of the men (perhaps most) leave from there and go to work.

David attended this group for the very first time before we even lived here.  At that time, it was being held in one of the men's apartments and David, not even knowing this man or how to get into his apartment (codes etc), got up early and got to this man's address and waited to see if a man carrying a Bible showed up knowing he must be going to the study!!!!  Once we moved here, he was a regular and lead many of the studies.  Anyway, they had their final study til the fall and the weather was so warm in the room where they usually met they went to the Courtyard of the church.  By June, their numbers were also down but still the "remnant" remained and studied the Bible together.

This is the men's Bible study-David said they should have had it in the Courtyard more often!

And last, but certainly not least, is La Canicule, the heatwave Paris (and much of France) experienced last week.  The temps were near 100 degrees F which is record breaking here.  Remember, most residences don't have air conditioning so the only relief comes if you go to a Monoprix (like Target), some retail establishments, and, perhaps some restaurants.  These beautiful Haussman buildings weren't built with air conditioning in mind!!!

Fortunately for us, when we were growing up in the 60's neither of us had air conditioning either.  In fact, we didn't have it in several of the houses we lived in when we were first married in the early 70's.  So, we knew just what to do....

First, we closed the metal shutters outside of our windows to block the morning (east) sun so the rooms wouldn't get heated up.

Closed but cozy and cooler!

This is the living room window where we sit each morning, have a coffee and talk about what's going on and plans coming up...or just whatever is on our minds!!!!

Second, we pulled out the fans we bought last year when it got hot.  We have two large oscillating fans, one in the living room/dining room and one for the bedroom.

Worth every euro!!

Because the kitchen is small, it can get warm and we knew we didn't have space for one of these fans so we bought this smaller cylindrical one for the kitchen.

A small tabletop fan might have been better but space was  an issue

Last year what we discovered was that although the closed shutters and fans helped, we couldn't seem to get much air pulling through the apartment.  THEN we discovered the benefit of our kitchen-window-opening-up-to-the-elevator-shaft!!!!!  It doesn't look pretty open, BUT it pulls air through the other windows and we have a breeze!!!!!

We never had to open both sides-one was enough then we closed it at night

And that's when all the beautiful, large windows we have in our lovely apartment are more than "just a pretty view"....

Lots of cool air can come in our bedroom window..and the view's not bad either!

The air coming in is cool (once the sun passes over us late morning, early afternoon and really great in the evenings), comfortable and relatively bug free.  I love not having screens...it's like in the movies where they open their windows and look out and don't have to look through a screen.  I love that!!!!

So...all this to say, we survived and it's cooler now and we're happy about that.  But we Midwesterners are a hardy bunch and don't need the luxury of air conditioning to enjoy the day!!!!